
i stood in front of the surly wench on 4th avenue and stepped through a portal into another world. a massive horned figure led the way, pulling a huge urn on wheels ringed by a group of whirling belly dancers who moved to the steadily pounding beat of tribal drums...and behind this for as far as the eye could see, was a seething throng of dancers, drummers, and performance artists of all kinds...children and adults alike with their faces painted in skeletal black and white patterns, most wearing elaborate costumes and holding placards adorned with names and pictures of dead loved ones, human and animal alike...there was a huge papier mache' dog on wheels, and all manner of massive puppetry, some with big heads, some small, some with just one person, or the crazy spider-skeleton that had at least a dozen people working all the legs and body parts...burning incense and sage, a veritable parade of every kind of freak imaginable filled the streets...it was like watching a cirque de soleil version of mardi gras conceived by jose posada...my flesh tingled and i wept at the sheer beauty of it, and the feeling of one-ness with it all...my words don't do it justice, some things just have to be experienced to be fully understood...i followed the procession along 4th avenue and made my way to the franklin docks near the raillroad tracks and waited...here they had set up a couple of huge metal statues, one of which belched fire...there were 2 screens that played a looping powerpoint slideshow of departed loved ones...eerie tibetan chants filled the air as the pictures played over and over again, some new, some very old...and i wept again as i thought of my grandfather, my father, my cousin george, my uncle joe...of past losses, and of those to come...the terrible finite beauty of our fragile existence...a huge skeletal doll hung suspended in the air, tethered to a bunch of huge balloons, it showered us with a mixture of ash (mashed potato flakes) and glitter...more music, more dancing, more drums, more people, more puppets, people on stilts and flam chen's amazing fire dancers....all of us waiting, until it finally got there...the urn at the front of the procession finally entered the staging area...it was packed, there was nowhere to go...we just stood there and watched as the procession made its way across the stage...people then wrote their prayers to the dead on pieces of paper that were collected and placed in the urn....more waiting....more ash and glitter raining down from above...but wait, suddenly the airborne doll-skeleton split open to reveal a woman in a white leotard and body paint emerging from it like a butterfly from a cocoon, life from death, the cycle of rebirth...she hung suspended in the air, spinning madly around and around and around....flares and torches were lit and the gold and red-clad devil figure dragged the urn up the ramp and across the stage as the dancers whirled and the drums punded and the last of the prayers for the dead were placed in the urn...more pounding drums, more tension and anticipation, more smoke and fire....the primal sense of an impending sacrificial offering of some sort...but what? ....the urn was finally hoisted to the top of a platform about 20 feet off the ground....clad in their weird gas masks, flam chen contined their fire dance...then the devil lit the fuse at the base of the tower and it slowly crept upward before igniting the prayer-filled urn and sending the pain and love and hope of the living skyward in a huge cloud of smoke and flame...this was the offering made to the dead....one collective voice raised to the heavens to say, "we live. we remember. we love. and you are not forgotten."
with the exception of the 3 years i spent in the army, i've lived in tucson for the past 20 years. that said, i'm truly ashamed to admit that i'd never been to an all souls procession before. and now that i've been to one, i'm going to make it a point to never miss another for as long as i continue to call this city my home.
there are several pages of great stills here, a cool slideshow here, and some okay video clips here, here, here (never mind the jesus freak spouting gibberish through a bullhorn), here, and here...but again, there is simply no substitute for being there.
Recent Comments